Lipari- fish, birds, storm.

May 17, 2014 We are in Lipari the largest of the Lipari Islands. Getting here was difficult,

We left Sardegna early Wednesday with good wind (NNW 15kts) and sailed through 58 hours alternating shifts between Eric and myself every 4 hours throughout the nights.  The tedium was interrupted soon after dinner on Thursday evening when a 5-6 kilo Tuna grabbed one of the lures.

Eric jumped into action. I reeled in the fish while he secured the second line, furled the jib,  put on his shoes and cleared the lines from the cockpit.  He took the rod and I recovered the gaff hook and lunged at the fish as Eric pulled it near. In a minute or two Eric killed the fish, reset the jib (wing on wing), and turned on the autopilot.  Thus, when order was so effortlessly restored, it seemed as if nothing had happened, except for the fish.

Early the next evening, after I had turned the fish into steaks, roasts and sashimi

and we had lunched on seared ahi and sashimi with soya sauce, wasabi and ginger, we arrived in Lipari, an Aeolian Island, after nearly outrunning a rather violent thunderstorm. I think Aeolus the Greek god described in the Odyssey may have had a hand in it.  I was at the wheel at the time, and Eric sleeping below.

About 20 NM North of the islands the storm appeared to be catching up with us. We were wing on wing doing 9 plus knots.  But it soon overtook us leaving little choice but to turn into the howling wind and take a reef. I called for help from Eric who had only just retired from his 4 hour watch at 5am. He woke and scrambled to the deck to take charge at the close sound of thunder, high winds, and the chattering of hail. The reef was taken, and we rode out the storm, once a bang and soon a whimper.

Twice during this crossing from Sardegna we were boarded by the tiniest birds, many miles from shore, appearing exhausted, so much so that Anna was moved to provide a sip of water to one who seemed to understand her intent as she whistled softly; it dipped its tiny beak into the red plastic cup filled with water that Anna had tipped toward the bird.

 Soon the bird disappeared only to return an hour later.  Once more in only a few moments it left forever.

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Our greatest challenge...Lipari Islands, Sicily

May 14 - 12 noon
The anchor slipped and we all were awakened at 2:30am.  We had drifted about 300 meters, and, as Martha explained, Eric used his mystical powers to sense this, awoke, and sounded the alarm (by starting the engine).  The anchor was reset in 30 minutes and we all retired until 7am.  We will sail direct toward Sicily today, and expect to arrive May 16.

A long and eventful crossing.  The sea temperature is 13 C (too cold for tuna, Eric says).  Nevertheless we rig a couple of lines with 6-7 inch colorful lures that remain a couple of feet below the surface, and appear to dart to the left and right.  With the boat making 4-5 knots it may appear to be a wounded small fish?  We remain hopeful.

High wind halts progress.

 Anchored off the Northeast shores of Sardegna.  Eric's decision to remain here for a day or two has us all involved in behaviors we have avoided for the past 5-6 days.  I'm updating the Blog and napping as if it were an Olympic sport.  Anna got out her paints and studied the blues of the wine dark sea.  Martha studied navigation, and Eric looked for the wind to abate; both took naps.  We enjoyed a leftover cauliflower and veggie soup for lunch.

The Sardegnan police arrived after dark with questions about our plans.  Apparently we have anchored just off the shores occupied by a deluxe hotel, golf course and what not.  Anna used the moment as a chance to break out her beloved Italian and soon they sped off in their formidable craft with pontoons, spotlights and, I'd guess, a machine gun rack. I chose to remain below.

We leave French waters May 12 2pm.

We leave today for Sardegna and the 350 mile trip to Straits of Messina.  We will make two stops in Sardegna and seek to leave Northern Sardegna and sail direct to Lipari Islands off the North coast of Sicilia.  There will be round the clock watches.  

I awake coughing much of the night.  I am napping several hours during each day, and feel OK.  It has become more of a bother than anything else. A nice rest in Bonifacio has been wonderful.

May 11 11pm- We are in Bonifacio, Corse

We left Port St. Louis May 8th and sailed to Ciotat; anchored for the night.  The boat is well provisioned and behaving as it should.  We have 150 nautical miles left to reach Campomoro, Corse.  Eric motors off at 2am.  No wind.  I wake at 3:45am to relieve Eric.  We motor through the night.  Eric relieves and tells me of his dream.  "It's a good time but we are in a hospital".  (My cold has worsened.)

(To jump ahead 5 years and return to exploring the Platte River and Omaha, click here.)

It's 6am and by now there is a little wind but still we motor until 2PM when sails are set.  A second night on watch finds Anna & me getting up at 1:45 to relieve Eric at 2am.  We are relieved at 5am; go to bed and sleep until 9.

We catch a Sfirida (Greek for Grouper).  Arrive Campomoro by 6pm.  We all enjoy the Grouper (originally we thought it was a Pageot, later a Cernier) barbecued, with a nice bottle of Cote du Rhone, petty jealousies, minor irritations and narcissistic wounds aside (more of that later).

Entrance to Bonifacio port is just to the left of the limestone cave pictured here. We left Campomoro 9:30am and arrive Bonifacio by 2pm today May 11th.  Eric hooks a fish likely a tuna. Alas, the fish escapes!

 View from hilltop where most of this ancient city lies.

We are tied up in the port for the night. Anna & I climb to the fort, watch towers and numerous restaurants, shops and apartments at the top of the limestone bluffs.  A natural harbor and unlimited views of the sea have make Bonifacio much more than a pretty face.

May 6 - Getting underway without being in the way

 I've contracted a cold. Eric wants to purchase all food supplies for the journey, so the evening before we set about constructing detailed lists (4 kg. onions, 6 kg. mozzarella (I'm prepared to make pizza, or should I say determined, on and on); and, since I have little or no interest in the mathematics of determining how much mozzarella need we purchase to cover however many pizza would I cook in 5 weeks, (it turned out to be 6 kg, 6 nights of pizza for the four of us), I remained as cheerful as possible.

We buy $700+ in food supplies at Intermarche.

We install the mainsail.

Launch after lunch. 6 of 10: still jetlagged

The three day Mistral has blown itself out.  We launch the boat today.  Martha and I shopped for baguettes, jambon, et fromage at Supermarche in Port St. Louis.  The best Camembert is made au lait cru in Normandie (unpasteurized milk, unavailable at home).

PS. The Blog displays the date time at home (Pacific). We are +9 today, Central European Time.


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